The Collectors
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Friday 13 October 2006
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Gordons best advice for anyone thinking of restoring a piece of furniture is to do as little as possible and as much as necessary. It is very important to be aware of the history of a piece of furniture before embarking on any restoration work. The value of an antique can be completely destroyed if restoration work is done incorrectly, and it is always worth consulting a professional if there are any concerns about the significance of a piece.
Making some basic observations helps us to recognise features underneath a layer of paint or a weathered appearance that can indicate whether a piece of furniture has restoration potential.
Often Huon pine or cedar can be concealed beneath a layer of paint.
The style of original knobs and handles on drawers and cupboards can indicate how old a piece is.
The quality of the workmanship can help decide whether a piece is worth restoring.
Stripping
Pine is the only timber that should be caustic dipped.
Dipping furniture in caustic creates a lot of problems. If a piece is left in the solution too long it will penetrate into cracks and joints and can cause:
Timber to dehydrate
Raises the nap on surfaces (the caustic removes layers of wood)
Bleaches pine
Ruins the colour of oak
Warping
Glue to come unstuck
Joints to loosen
Furniture that has been caustic dipped should be neutralised with oxalic acid. If this is not done, caustic can leach out of the surface and cause a white bloom to appear in joints, cracks and in the grain.
The timber will be dehydrated so moisture must be added back. Shellac and polishing is the best way to do this.
Caustic dipping will damage all hardwoods. Any old paint should be stripped by hand with a heat gun if this needs to be done. Old paint may contain lead, and the chemicals in paint strippers are very toxic. Wear protective clothing and wash off the residue with methylated spirits. When stripping old paint by hand using paint stripper and/or heat gun it is important to do this in a well-ventilated area, preferably outside.
CleaningProtect the finish on a piece of furniture by applying beeswax polish at least once a year. Apply it sparingly with a soft cloth and polish with another lint-free cloth. A good shine comes from rubbing rather than using a lot of wax.
Re-gluing a piece of veneer
Clean the area between the two surfaces before applying the glue.
Use water soluble glue
Wipe away any excess glue with a soft cloth.
Precisely match the edges of the veneer in preparation for clamping.
A piece of plywood or a similar barrier should be placed between the clamp and piece of furniture to prevent denting and damage from the clamp.
Place weights over the area while it dries to give a tight adhesion without air bubbles.
Pieces of veneer that have been broken need to be joined so that the colour and grain matches. This type of work should only be done by a professional.
French PolishingThe art of French polishing is in the smooth and quick application of many layers of shellac. Between 10 and 20 coats are usually applied. French Polishing is a skill that can be developed with patience and practice. The basic ingredients are the shellac mixture and elbow grease.
How to mix shellacA 50/50 proportion of dried shellac flakes and methylated spirits are mixed together and dissolved before application.
Place 250 gms of shellac flakes into a large clean container with 500 ml of methylated spirits.
Leave until flakes are thoroughly dissolved, stirring occasionally. Heating over a low temperature can accelerate this.
Strain the liquid through a stocking into the container to remove any foreign material.
Do not use a metal container to store liquid shellac as this will degrade the mixture at a very fast rate.
The mixture may be thinned as required with methylated spirits.
Sprinkle a few drops of boiled linseed oil between the layers to make application easier.
A much more even colour will be achieved if a stain is added to the shellac mixture
The colour of the stain should be tested underneath the piece before applying.
